HORS
D’OEUVRE
Hors d’oeuvre, whether hot or cold,
are very small portions of foods served before the meal to whet the appetite.
Hors d’oeuvre can be passed elegantly by waiters or displayed on buffets
appetizers, or starters, whether hot or cold, are generally the first course or
introduction to a meal; they are more typically served with dinner than with
lunch. Sometimes there is very little difference between an hors d’oeuvre and
an appetizer.
GUIDELINES
FOR PREPARING HORS D’OEUVRE
1.
They should be small, one to two bites.
2. They
should be flavorful and well seasoned without being overpowering.
3. They
should be visually attractive.
4.
They should complement whatever foods may follow
without duplicating their flavors.
COLD HORS D’OEUVRE
Cold hors
d’oeuvre are divided here into five broad categories. They are canapés,
caviars, crudités, dips and sushi.
CANAPES
Canapés are
tiny, open-faced sandwiches. They are constructed from a base, a spread and one
or more garnishes.
They
most common canapé base is a thin slice of bread cut into an interesting shape
and toasted. Although most any variety of bread can be used, spiced, herbed or
otherwise flavored breads may be inappropriate for some spreads or garnishes.
Melba toasts crackers and slices of firm vegetables such as cucumber or
zucchini are also popular canapé bases. Whatever item is used, the base must be
strong enough to support the weight of the spread and garnish without falling
apart when handled.
The canapé spread provides much of the
canapé’s flavor. Spreads are usually flavored butters, cream cheese or a
combination of the two.
Table 28.1 A selection of canapé spreads
and suggested
Garnishes
Spread suggested garnishes
Anchovy
butter hard-cooked eggs,
capers, green or black olive slices
Blue cheese grape half, walnuts, roast
beef roulade, pear slice currants, watercress
Caviar butter caviar, lemon egg slice,
chives
Deviled ham cornichons, mustard butter,
sliced radish
Horseradish
butter smoked salmon, roast beef,
smoked trout, marinated herring, capers, parsley
Lemon
butter shrimp, crab,
caviar, salmon, chives, parsley, black olive slices
Liver pate truffle slice, cornichons
Mustard
butter smoked meats, pate,
dry salami coronet, and cornichons
Pimento cream
cheese smoked oyster, sardine, pimento,
parsley
Shrimp
butter poached bay scallops,
shrimp, caviar, parsley
Tuna salad capers, cornichons,
sliced radish
GUIDELINES FOR PREPARING CANAPE SPREADS
The variety of canapé garnishes is vast.
The garnish can dominate or complement the spreads, or it can be a simple sprig
of parsley intended to provide visual appeal but little flavor. Traditional
garnishes can be made by shaping thinly sliced smoked salmon into rosettes, or
thin slices of salami into cornets, into which additional spread can be piped.
The natural shape of a boiled, peeled shrimp also makes an attractive canapé
garnish.
Barquettes, Tartlets and Profiteroles
Barquettes,
tartlets and profiteroles are all adaptations of the basic canapé. A barquette
is a tiny boat-shaped shell made from savory dough such as pate brisee. A
tartlet is simply a round version of a barquette. A profiterole is a small puff
made from pate a choux. These three items can be prepared like canapés by
filling them with flavored spreads and garnishing as desired.
CAVIAR
Caviar,
considered by many to be the ultimate hors d’oeuvre, is the salted roe (eggs)
of the sturgeon fish. In the United
States, only sturgeon roe can be labeled
simply “caviar.” Roe from other fish must be qualified as such on the label
(for example, salmon caviar or lumpfish caviar).
Most of the world’s caviar comes from
sturgeon harvested in the Caspian Sea and imported from Russia and Iran. Imported sturgeon caviar
classified according to the sturgeon species and the roe’s size and color
include beluga osetra and sevruga as well as pressed caviar. Beluga is the most
expensive caviar, and comes from the largest species (the sturgeon can weight
up to 1750 pounds/800 kilograms); the dark gray and well-separated eggs are the
largest and most fragile kind. Osetra is considered by some connoisseurs to be
the best caviar; the eggs are medium-sized, golden yellow to brown and quite
only to dark gray. Pressed caviar is processed caviar made from osetra and
sevruga roes. The eggs are cleaned, packed in linen bags is destroyed and
produce only 1 pound (450 grams) of pressed caviar; pressed caviar has a
spreadable, jamlike consistency.
Purchasing and storing caviars
Although all
caviar is processed with salt, some caviar is labeled malassol, which means
“little salt.” Caviar should smell fresh, with no off odors. The eggs should be
whole, not broken, and they should be crisp and pop when pressed with the
tongue. Excessive oiliness may be caused by a large number of broken eggs. The
best way to test caviar’s quality is to taste it.
Serving Caviars
Fine caviar
should be served in its original container or a nonmetal bowl on a bed of
crushed ice, accompanied only by lightly buttered toasts or blinis and sour
cream. Connoisseurs prefer china, bone or other nonmetal utensils for serving
caviar because metal reacts with the caviar, producing off flavors.
Crudités
Crudite, a
French word meaning “raw thing,” generally refers to raw or slightly blanched
vegetables served as a hors d’oeuvre. Although almost any vegetable will do,
the most commonly used are broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, celery, asparagus
and green beans, all of which are often blanched, and cucumber zucchini, yellow
squash, radishes, green onions, cheery tomatoes, Belgian endive leaves,
mushrooms, peppers and jicama, which are served raw.
When preparing crudités, use only the
freshest and best-looking produce available. Because they are displayed and
eaten raw, blemishes and imperfections cannot be disguised. Vegetables, both
blanched and raw, should be cut into attractive shapes. Crudités are usually
served with one or more dips.
DIPS
Dips can be
served hot or cold and as an accompaniment to crudités, crackers, chips, toasts
breads or other foods.
Cold dips often use mayonnaise, sour cream
or cream cheese as a base. The methods for preparing mayonnaise-based and sour
cream-based dips are identical to those for making mayonnaise-based salad
dressings discussed in chapter 24, salads and salad dressings. The principal difference
is that dips are normally thicker than dressings.
To use cream cheese as a base, first
soften it by mixing it in an electric mixer with a paddle attachment. Then add
the flavoring ingredients such as chopped cooked vegetables, chopped cooked
fish or shellfish, herbs, spices garlic or onions. Adjust the consistency of
the dip by adding milk, buttermilk cream, sour cream or other appropriate
liquid.
Some cold dips such as guacamole and hummus
use purees of fruits, vegetables or beans as the base.
Hot dips often use a béchamel, cream sauce
or cheese sauce as a base and usually contain a dominant flavoring ingredient
such as chopped spinach or shellfish.
Dips can be served in small bowls or
hollowed-out cabbages, squash pumpkins or other vegetables. Hot dips are often
served in chafing dishes.
The combinations of ingredients and
seasonings that can be used to make dips as well as the foods that are dipped
in them are limited only by the chef’s imagination.
SUSHI
Generally, sushi
refers to cooked or raw fish and shellfish rolled in our served on seasoned
rice. Sashimi is raw fish eaten without rice. In Japan, the word sushi (or zushi)
refers only to the flavored rice. Each combination of rice and another
ingredient or ingredients has a specific name. These include nigiri zushi (rice
with raw fish), norimaki zushi (rice rolled in seaweed), fukusa zushi (rice
wrapped in omelet), inari zushi (rice in fried bean curd) and cbirashi zushi
(rice with fish, shellfish and vegetables). Although a Japanese sushi master
spends years perfecting style and technique, many types of sushi can be
produced in any professional kitchen with very little specialized equipment.
INGREDIENTS
Fish-The key to good sushi and sashimi
is the freshness of the fish. All fish must be of the highest quality and
absolutely fresh, preferably no more than one day out of the water. Ahi and
yellowfin tuna, salmon, flounder and sea bass are typically used for sushi.
Cooked shrimp and eel are also popular.
Rice- Sushi rice is prepared by adding
seasonings such as vinegar, sugar, salt and rice wine (sake or mirin) to
steamed short-grain rice. The consistency of the rice is very important. It
must be sticky enough to stay together when formed into finger-shaped oblongs,
but not too soft.
Seasonings- These include.
·
Shoyu- Japanese soy sauce, which is lighter and
more delicate than the Chinese variety.
·
Wasabi- A strong aromatic root, purchased as a
green powder, it is sometimes called green horseradish although it is not
actually related to the common horseradish.
·
Pickled ginger- fresh ginger pickled in vinegar,
which gives it a pink color.
·
Nori- A dried seaweed purchased in sheets; it
adds flavor and is sometimes used to contain the rolled rice and other ingredients.
Hot
Hors d’oeuvre
To provide a comprehensive list of hot hors
d’oeuvre would be virtually impossible; therefore, we discuss just a few of the
more commonly encountered ones that can be easily made in most any kitchen.
Filled
Pastry Shells
Because savory (unsweetened) barquettes and
tartlets, choux puffs and bouchees can hold a small amount of liquid, they are
often baked than filled with warm meat, poultry or fish purees or ragouts, garnished
and served hot. They become soggy quickly, however, and must be prepared at the
last possible minute before service.
BROCHETTES
Hors d’oeuvre brochettes are small skewers
holding a combination of meat, poultry, game, fish, shellfish or vegetables.
The foods are typically marinated, then baked, grilled or boiled and are
usually served with a dipping sauce brochettes can be small pieces of boneless
chicken breast marinated in white wine and grilled; beef cubes glazed with
teriyaki sauce; lamb or chicken satay (sate) with peanut sauce or rabbit and
shitake mushrooms skewered on a sprig of fresh rosemary.
MEATBALLS
Meatballs made from ground beef, veal, pork or
poultry and served in a sauce buffet style are a popular hot hors d’oeuvre. One
of the best known is the Swedish meatball. It is made from ground beef, veal
and pork bound with eggs and bread crumbs and served in a veloute or cream
sauce seasoned with dill. Other sauces that can be used in the same manner are
mushroom sauce, red wine sauce or any style of tomato sauce.
RUMAKI
Traditionally, rumakis were made by wrapping
chicken livers in bacon and broiling or baking them. Today, however, many other
foods prepared in the same fashion are called rumaki. For example, blanched
bacon can be wrapped around olives, pickled watermelon rind, water chestnuts,
pineapple, dates or scallops. These morels are then broiled, baked or fried and
served piping hot.
Other
Hot Hors d’ oeuvre
Other types of hot hors d’oeuvre include layers
of phyllo dough wrapped around various fillings; vegetables such as mushrooms
that are stuffed and baked; tiny red potatoes filled with sour cream and caviar
or Roquefort cheese and walnuts; tiny artichoke or clam fritters or any of the
hundreds of varieties of chicken wings that are seasoned or marinated, baked,
fried, broiled or grilled and served with a cool and soothing or outrageously
spicy sauce.
The
secret is to let your imagination be your guide, to keep the ingredients
harmonious and, if the hors d’oeuvre are to precede dinner, not to allow them
to duplicate the foods to be served or overpower them with excessively spicy
flavors.
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