DEFINITION OF PATE AND TERRINES
PATE
PATE This word is used in three ways in
French:
Pate, pate en
terrine and pate en croilte. In France the word pate on its own should,
strictly speaking, be applied only to a dish consisting of a pastry case
(shell) filled with meat fish, vegetable or fruit, which is baked in the oven
and served hot or cold. The best English translation of this word is ‘pie’,
although many of these dishes are much richer and more elaborate than the sort
of pie usually eaten in Britain
and the United States
and are often prepared in moulds rather than pie dishes.
Pate en terrine
is a meat, game or fish preparation put into a dish (terrine) lined with bacon,
cooked in the oven and always served cold. The correct French abbreviation of
this is terrine, but in common usage the French also call it pate. The English
have adopted both names.
Pate en croute
is a rich meat, game or fish mixture cooked in a pastry crust and served hot or
cold.
Pate was known
to the Romans, who used to make it chiefly with pork but also used all types of
marinated spiced ingredients (especially birds’ tongues). In the middle ages
there were numerous recipes for patisseries (meats cooked in pastry) made with
pork, poultry, eel, burbot, carp, sturgeon, cod, venison, capon and sheep’s
tongues. Throughout the centuries, pates have been dedicated to famous people:
some examples are pate a la mazarine (in honour of cardinal mazarine), pate a
la cardinale and pate a la reine. In his grand dictionnaire dc cuisine,
Alexander Dumas names a dozen, with numerous variants. Today there are many varieties
of pate inspired by French regional cookery, notably pate de charters (made
with partridge), pate d’amiens (duck), pate de pithiviers (larks), pate de
pezenas (mutton, spices and sugar), pate de bran-tome (woodcock), pate de
ruffec (foie gras with truffles), Corsican blackbird pate. Dieppe
sole pate, pate de Lorraine and pate Bourbonnais.
Most pates sold in delicatessens are actually
ter-rines, based on pork meat or offal, in pieces or minced (ground) and bound
with eggs, milk and jelly. Among the best French pates are pate de cam-pagne,
particularly that from Brittany (pure pork pate containing offal, rind, onions,
spices and herbs): also pate de rolaille and pate de gibier ( chicken and game
pates, containing 15% of the animal); pate de foie (containing 15% pork liver
and 45% fat); and pate de tete (containing boned cooked pig’s head mixed with
cooked, salted meat with the rind still on).
The pastry most
often used for pate en croute is pate a pate, which is an ordinary lining
pastry made with lard (shortening), but a fine pastry made with butter also
used, as well as puff pastry and unsweetened brioche dough. Pate a pate must be
made well in advance, as it is easier to work after a good rest and does not
brown so quickly when cooking. The pastry lid, which is sealed at the edges so
that the filling cannot escape, is golden and often decorated. The centre is
pierced with a ‘chimney’- a small hole (often two in large pates) is made in
the pastry, and sometimes a small nozzle or cone is inserted to enable the
steam to escape and prevent the pate from splitting.
The pate mould,
which has deep sides and hinges or clips, may be round, oval or rectangular.
Dariole moulds are sometimes used for very small pates.
The fillings are
based on pork, pork and veal, ham, chicken, fish, game and sometimes
vegetables. All the ingredients are generally minced (ground) quite finely, but
some of them may be cut into matchsticks, small strips or dice. The ingredients
may be marinated separately. They pate is sometimes lined with bacon barding
before the filling is added.
EQUIPMENTS, MOULDS AND UTENSILS USED IN
MAKING A PATE
- A professional chef should always use appropriate mould, tools and equipment to get the perfect result. For example terrines should be made in only terrine moulds.
a)
Equipments-meat mincer, buffalo chopper, grinder, oven
etc.
b)
Tools-sieves, conical strainer, bowls, pastry scrapper,
spatula, cutters, tartlet tins, baking trays, pastry wheel, pastry crimper etc.
c)
Moulds-pate mould, collapsible mould, loaf mould,
porcelain moulds, timbale moulds, terrine moulds, earthenware terrine moulds,
glazed moulds, decorative moulds etc.
d)
Utensils-dishes, vessels (non corrosive) etc.
TERRINE
TERRINE A fairly deep dish with
straight sides, grips or handles, and a tightly fitting lid that rests on an
inner lip. Terrines are manufactured in a wide range of sizes; they can be made
of glazed earthenware (with the lid sometimes shaped like an animal) or of
porcelain, ovenproof glass or even enameled cast iron. The food cooked or
served in such a container is also known as a terrine.
The
word terrine in France
is also the name of a stoneware utensil shaped like a truncated cone with a
wide rim and, sometimes, a pouring spout; it is used to hold milk or cream, to
work forcemeat or a paste or to steep a foodstuff. A terrine may also be a
simple serving utensil used to present dishes such as pickled herring fillets
or mushrooms a la grecque.
The preparations
known as terrines are numerous and varied. They are usually made with mixed
meats, but can also be made with fish, seafood and even vegetables. They are
served cold in the container in which they are cooked (or in slices taken from
the latter), accompanied by gherkins, pickled onions and cherries or grapes as
a sweet-and-sour garnish. Fish or vegetable terrines are sometimes served with
a sauce and may be eaten warm. They are generally prepared with cooked ingredients
set in aspic jelly, or ingredients reduced to a mouse and cooked in a bain
marie.
The majority of
meat terrines contain amount of pork (fat and lean), or sometimes veal, mixed
with the meat that gives the dish its name: chicken, chicken liver, game or
foie gras, for example. The ingredients are used in varying proportions and are
cut up in different ways, depending on the recipe (reduced to forcemeat; cut
into strips, dice or fillets; or coarsely chopped). Seasoning always plays an
important part in the preparation, as does marinating the ingredients in
alcohol. The containers are usually lined with bacon fat and the preparation
covered with jelly or lard. They are often autumn dishes, as this is the game
season, and may be garnished with mushrooms, nuts (walnuts, almonds) and
aromatic herbs such as thyme, bay leaf or juniper berries.
This is how Rene
Boylesve describes the terrine in L’Enfant a la balustrade: ‘she took us to the
dinning room and ran to the sideboard. She took out a brown glazed earthenware
terrine, which had a recumbent animal roughly moulded on the lid … The contents
formed an egg-shaped dome which was reddish-bronze in colour, decorated with
strips of bacon fat, glazed and half-melted, which still seemed to sizzle, and
small bay leaves, also cooked, like greenish copper ornaments. Snow-white
grease enshrined it all like a crackled wall, milky-blue in colour. It was a
pate made.’ Game from the bourriche (game bag)
Terrines, which
are cooked covered in the oven, in a bain marie, are often rustic dishes,
suitable for slicing; others, however, are sophisticated preparation, such as
terrine de nerac (red-legged partridge, chicken livers, ham and truffles),
terrines of goose liver (very much in vogue in the 18th century,
before goose liver pate was created), and terrines of venison, wild rabbit or
thrushes with juniper berries. Contemporary chefs have a preference for
terrines of fish and shellfish: crayfish with small vegetables, scorpion fish,
red mullet, burbot, pike, as well as vegetarian varieties. Terrines are also
prepared as desserts made with fruit set in jelly, which are served with cream
or a fruit sauce.
SEASONING WITH HERBS.
Leaving aside Mediterranean cooking which has always shown a
predilection for herbs, the use of herbs has for countries past tended to go un
phases. People were inclined to turn to native herbs when times were hard
hopefully, that present popularity of herbs is, hopefully, not a passing phase,
but recognition of the fact that herbs (particularity fresh ones) can
complement more exotic spices to give added variety to the number of possible
seasonings.
FRESH HERBS FOR PATES AND TERRINES
For a long time
now ready made seasoning mixtures have included dried herbs. Replacing dried
thyme with fresh when you make up your own mixture does not considerably alter
the outcome. Fresh herbs should be used, however, where their qualities can be
fully appreciated in fish pates and terrines, for example, in aspics or the
various sauces for hot pates. Indeed, you should try to experiment with the
full range of herbs and not stick merely to parsley and chives. Fresh herbs
have become so popular that they are now often sold in super, market and
greengrocers’. During the summer months at least. They will keep for up to a week
in the refrigerator if you stand them in water, or sprinkle them with water and
wrap them in a plastic bag.
The best thing
of course is to have your own herb garden, but even a window box on a balcony
can provide fresh herbs throughout the summer. Garden from seed or cuttings,
you can always have fresh supply of your favourite herbs. The old-fashioned
drying method (not all herbs can be dried however) and freezing. Which
preserves the qualities of the herbs excellently? It is worthwhile chopping
herbs before freezing and freezing them in individual portions. But you can
also freeze whole leaves (rosemary, basil and thyme are particularly suitable
and use them for decorating terrines.
Examples are
Basil, mugwort,
savory, borage, dill, tarragon, Lovage, marjoram, oregano, parsley, mint,
burnet, rosemary, sage, chives, thyme, hyssop, lemon balm,
LIVER PATES AND TERRINES:
Its popularity
has spread at lightning speed. Of the many livers of different birds and
animals; goose liver pate is the most famous. The bird is forcefully fed to
increase itself in size and the result a fattened liver. Other livers which are
used in the preparation are duck, pig, calf, turkey, chicken, etc. The liver is
marinated with salt and pepper and a little amount of port and brandy.
Additional seasoning may be added such as all-spice. Truffles may be an
additional ingredient. Cooking time is 40 min, in a water bath at 80 c.
Classification of pates
Galantines:
It is derived
from the French term galant meaning elegant. They are prepared from boned
poultry or game stuffed with forcemeat. It is trussed and arranged to give the
natural shape of the animal. Galantine is poached and left to cool in a stock
made from the bones from the animal used. It is done in three steps.
1. Preparation: Remove the bone with
skin and meat intact.
2. Assembling: Place stuffing and roll
in a dampened cheese cloth and tie it.
3. Cooking: Poach below boiling point
in a stock. Slice it and serve with small cubes of delicate aspic
BALLONTINES:
These
are smaller relatives of galantines where the leg portions are used for the
preparation. Leg bones are removed and forcemeat is stuffed. It should be in
the shape of a ball or ham. It can be roasted or braised. It can be roasted or
braised. It can be glazed with aspic or chaud-froid sauce and is served cold.
ROULLADE:
This
term applies to food items that is rolled for example a fillet of a fish,
pounded, spread with a forcemeat and rolled. It can be poached or roasted. It
is served with a sauce made from the stock obtained from the bones used in the
preparation.
PARFAIT:
There
are two parfaits; one is frozen mousse like dessert, second is a savory
terrine. In a savory type filling can be made with vegetables, fish and
poultry. It has a very fine texture. It can be cooked in a terrine mould or a
gutter mould.
MOUSSE AND MOUSSELIINE:
Mousse
is a cooked puree bound with gelatin and lightened with whipped cream, set by
chilling, Mousseline forcemeat is composed of raw pureed meat or fish combined
with eggs and cream set by cooking. If served hot, it is termed Mousseline
forcemeat.
TIMBALES:
Timbale
is mould with a filling of some kind. Cooked or uncooked ingredients are
arranged in layers in a charlotte moulds. It is then poached and remolded. They
are easy to make and are served with a sauce.
SPANAKOPITTA
An
assembly of vegetable puree and diced vegetables bound together with double
cream. This is a classical cold meat from Greece. The process of making a
classical spanakopitta is similar to the vegetable en-aspic but it generally
does not involve gelatin but its set with the help of thick cream.
EMPANADAS:
These
are Spanish pies. They are famous in America. The recipe vary from one
region to another. It is baked and served for lunch.
RISSOLES
This
is derived from the French word rissoler which means to cook till brown. Though
they are browned they are not baked but they are deep fried. They are made from
rounds of pastry folded in to cersents dipped in egg and then crumbed. They are
usually made from puff pastry or from short crust.
DIMSUMS
Small
individual pates either stuffed in pancakes or in dough balls are originally
from china. Distinguishing feature is that dimsums are always steamed and no
other method of cooking can be applied. The history quotes that dimsums have
originated from canton. Another feature of dimsums are that they are always
served in between the courses. Rarely vegetable sheets such as those taken from
cabbages are also used to make dimsums in some cases. The steaming process is
always in a bamboo basket. Dimsums are always non vegetarian in nature. Rarely
one can see a stuffing made out of vegetables is used in making dimsums.
Pate can be divided:
1.
Pastry case- Short crust pastry, puff pastry.
2.
FORCE MEAT/FILLING: Forcemeat is derived form the
French word farce. It is used as filling for pates and terrines. It is made
with meat, egg, pork fat, bread or flour. It should be light and airy.
It has three elements:
a.
The meat i.e., veal, game or poultry
b.
The pork which gives smoothness
c.
The pork fat which makes the pate light
3.
Seasoning: The seasoning of the pates and terrines is
an important aspect of the whole process of making pates as this gives the
actual taste to the amin meat. The entire process of pate seasoning revolves
around the proper usage of fresh herbs and spices, dried herbs and spices along
with the appropriate wines and alcohol. The latest trend now a days is that
ready made pate seasoning are also available in the markets.
4.
Binding and lightening may be:
1.
Pure forcemeat; The natural protein present in the meat
acts as the binding agent. The process should be done at low temperature, as it
is heat sensitive.
2.
Bread: Along with egg white, milk and cream it provides
lightness and binding.
3.
Egg: Acts as a binding and lightning agent. Fat content
is reduced, by adding egg.
4.
Flour panada: A paste made from flour panada, fat and
water. It can be made in two ways one done as for choux paste and the second as
for béchamel sauce. Too much of panada will give a sticky consistency.
5.
Rice: Used as a lightening agent, too much will tend a
greasy consistency.
CONSTRUCTION OF
A CLASSICAL PATE
The ratio of ingredients for classical forcemeat is;
2/3 main ingredient (game, poultry)
1/5 pork (moistening)
2/5 pork fat (lightening)
2. SEASONING:
As for as
possible fresh herbs should be used for the presentation. This gives the dish
real flavor and authenticity.
Dill
Tarragon
Lovage
Basil
Lemon balm
Readymade seasoning which is available and is made from
various spices is used extensively in the presentation. It is called
all-purpose spice mixture.
It consists of: white pepper, black pepper, mild paprika,
hot paprika, fresh thyme, fresh basil grounded mace, nutmeg, cloves, ginger and
bay leaf.
:
It is very difficult to understand the differences between a pate and terrine. The dictionary definitions of pate and terrine are very confusing. I understand from your writing that a pate is a forcemeat cooked in a pastry shell, whereas a terrine is a forcemeat cooked in an earthenware vessel called a terrine. I think chefs and cooks in general have over the years made things even more confusing. For instance, Pâté de Campagne seems to be more like a terrine than a pate. It is cooked in an earthenware vessel and is wrapped in bacon, not enclosed in pastry.
ReplyDeleteThank you for this well written resource. I will be using this as I continue to study Charcuterie, and other food topics.